10/21/2026
Screen Door: Portlanders love lining up at wee hours of the morning for mediocre breakfast food. Being one of them, I chose to do the same. After waiting in line for 30 minutes and taking a stroll through the Chic Pearl District, I finally had got a table at the famous Screen Door, the “best” fried chicken in Portland. Unfortunately being Portland, it was ass. As you peruse the following pictures, only one conclusion can ultimately be made. The simulacrum of aesthetic culture is bound to break when it encounters any sort of living experience. I am not near the South anymore. Dare I say it, this meal was an insult to Southern breakfast. - - 6/10
I started off with the Southern classic, fried green tomatoes. Towards the end of the growing season, these unripe fruits are harvested before weather takes them, creating a delicacy that has apparently diffused all the way to Pacific Northwest. Despite being served hot and heavy, the thin starch heavy breading could not adhere to the solanaceous bounty, dissecting itself in my own hands. Breading deserves at least some crunch, but the modus operandi of the Screen appears to be crispness, rather than that overt crunch I was missing. The tomatoes seemed good quality at least, no idea why they needed a remoulade.
What I was looking most forward to was the chicken with gravy. You know how much I love gravy. I could write a novel about my love of the viscous ichor emulsion of fat and flavor but instead I will write about my dissatisfaction. Despite my order being called “Chicken & Biscuits,” it was more like chicken parm and biscuit. The boneless chicken, which seems to be a pattern in this city that fears self-reflection and conscientiousness, came breaded like the tomato, far too thin and with a distinct lack of crunch. Maybe the trend of overengineering food has reached its zenith, as despite the moist interior of the chicken, bones would have done it much better and allowed me to reflect on the chicken sacrificed to my stomach. What was worse was the gravy that smothered it was overwhelmingly herbal. I am used to the traditional, maybe a hint of sage in a sausage gravy. What I received was a more akin to an alfredo, w